Sanding off the Epoxy

Okay, so this page is the process by which I sanded all of the glue off of the wood. It seems a little strange to glue the whole thing, and then work for hours sanding it all off, but it works well because the liquid epoxy filled the holes in the wood. All we're doing with the sandpaper is taking off the top layer, which is all glue, not really any wood, so that the filled grains stand out against the wood color. Like I said, this will take you many hours and lots of elbow grease to complete. It's very difficult to get the glue off in some places, especially with wood like ash, which is so porous that the glue soaked in a little. I actually waited about a week after I glued the body before I even started sanding, and as I write this, it's been about three weeks, and I've only just finished the front and back. If you get right on it, it may come off a little more easily, but it'll still take you a while. I'm using 220 grit sandpaper both on a block and by hand. Stew Mac sells sticky back sandpaper for sticking to blocks, but it works just as well to wrap the paper around the block and staple it. When I do it by hand, I rip 2"x2" squares and fold them to get a good grip. Sadly, the paper inside the fold that rubs against itself is unusable after you sand a little, but the other sides should last a while. My general tactic is to block sand a bunch on one side, then attack smaller areas, the switch back to block and so on.

UPDATE: Don't start with 220! I was nervous about taking wood off the body if I started lower and went high. That was total bunk. I sanded the sides starting with 60 grit, then 150, then 220, and it took a lot (took me 2 hours tops) less time. Learn from my mistakes, don't waste your time starting with 220.

I know I sound like a delay pedal, but always wear safety equipment. This process is especially dangerous to the lungs. Take the epoxy's toxic chemicals and breathe them in, you'll get sick. If you do the same when they're a fine powder, you'll get cancer. Also, work in a well ventilated area. I never sand in my room unless I can open the window and turn on a fan, because the dust will fly and settle. I really should be working in a shop with a ventilation system, but this is the best I can do.
This is what the dust looks like. It's extremely fine, and it builds up quickly on the wood as you're sanding.
Here's the back before I sanded. It's blacker than the front, I must have added more hardener to the resin than when I did the front.
Just to show you what I did, that's the sanding block I used. The paper on it lasted me through the front and the back. Press firmly, you won't eat through the wood, at least not at this point. Don't do curves like the edges with the block, but run them over the edges like the pickup cavities so you sand evenly.
There I go sanding. Half of the back is looking dusty. Wipe excess dust off with a dry cloth or your hand to keep the sandpaper effective.
There. I've just finished doing one layer. After this, you should wipe it down at least with a dry cloth. I used wet cloths occasionally, but when water mixes with the dust, it turns into weird sticky granules that are hard to get off, so wipe it with a dry one first.
Even though it looks dusty, I've already made a lot of progress. Compare wiped clean (wet) to the dust buildup. That's why you have to keep it clean. The dust reduces the friction power of the sandpaper.
Here's the back wiped fully clean. It's a start, but that took me probably 20 minutes. It's gonna be a long process.
Same shot after another layer, maybe two. The dark spots, especially between the grains, are what I want to hit with the smaller pieces of sandpaper by hand.
Finally, here she is just about done. Those few slightly dark spots won't make much of a difference after I stain the wood, and I risk sanding too much if I go after them with any effort.
Here's my favorite grain. This is what I was looking forward to. The grain is black, and the whole back is completely smooth.
Another shot of the divine grain.
Here's my first checkpoint on the side part of the back. I had to do this all by hand, so it took longer, but it's coming along fine.
It's starting to look better now. I'll come back to the sides after I finish the front.
My first stop during the front. Don't wipe the dust, especially wet, that falls into the cavities. Vacuum it out with a long nozzle, because if you don't, it'll get stuck in there.
Here's a little more of the front done, I'm still using just the block at this point to get rid of most of the stuff on top.
Another shot of the front. It's slow going, and the epoxy comes off unevenly. As long as you use the block, it should end up pretty even with just a little left to sand.
There's a little more done. The contour on the bottom left was difficult to do with the block, so I did it mostly by hand.
Here's the big grain, mostly done.
Here's the front completely done. I cleaned up the edges later when I did the sides.
Here's the front's awesome grain up close. This picture embodies exactly what I wanted when I started filling the grain.
Some progress on the side. I'm so glad I started using a low-grit sandpaper!
The sides are finished. The glue didn't stay in the grain too well on the sides, but the stain will help, and I'm going to spray the sides black anyway.


Click Here to go back to the page about filling the grain,